Bill Haskell

www.billhaskell.com

Since his early years, Bill has had a keen interest in creative expression. He has pursued that interest in many mediums, including silver jewelry and metal sculpture, but mainly in wood. His first encounter with woodturning was in Junior High wood shop, where a few bowls were turned using terrible tools with no instruction. However, this woodturning experience intrigued him and in 1989, a latent interest in woodturning was rekindled after he bought an old secondhand Dunlap lathe from a friend. Since that time, Bill has become an avid and active woodturner. He feels challenged in a new and exciting way by the artistic and technical avenues into which this medium has expanded. Artistic expression in turned wood has exploded in the last 25 years, and Bill is enthusiastically a part of this creative direction.

Bill is largely self-taught, but he has attended numerous woodturning symposiums and demonstration classes over the years. At these demonstrations, renown professional and inter-national turners teach their techniques and woodturning principles, as well as design concepts. These have been an invaluable educational source for Bill.

Mentoring numerous turners in his workshop, demonstrating woodturning techniques to various chapters and other venues, and exhibiting at local art shows and in several galleries are some of the woodturning activities in which Bill has been involved. The Home & Garden Channel (HGTV) filmed him on the lathe and performing the biomorphic piercing work he incorporates into some of his pieces.

Natural elements found in timber (some might say imperfections) are often used to advantage by Bill in his work. Such features as bark inclusions, unusual figure, distressed areas, spalting (which is the initial stage of decomposition), natural edges, and sapwood/heartwood color contrast are often employed to achieve striking and unusual character in combination with complementary form.

In his turning, Bill seeks to explore form composition in turned objects, often with woods that offer rich figure, color, and unusual character. While finished wood is a warm, sensuous, inviting, and tactile material, creating a beautiful form in each piece is a primary objective. His ultimate goal is to create an appealing shape that is complementary with the distinctive quality of the wood used in each one-of-a-kind studio piece.

In more recent years, Bill has used carved and/or pierced designs to enhance his pieces after the lathe work is complete. In most of these cases, a less dramatic wood is used to minimize competition between the natural character of the wood and the carved or pierced design.

Examples of his carved and pierced work can be found in his vessels with tuxedo and seed pod openings, as well as in his coral series and flowing ribbon carved vessels.

Click on any of the small pictures below to view a full sized image.   (not all images have larger views)


Carob
November 2011

Iron Bark Eucalyptus
November 2011

Ash, Red Gum Eucalyptus
June 2011

Olive
April 2011

Cocobolo, Manzanita & Ebony
June 2011


Black Locust
November 2011

Carob
March 2011

Carob Burl
March 2011

Spalted California Buckeye & Black Walnut - Contest Winner
February 2011

Spalted Maple
February 2011

November 2010

November 2010

Madrone Burl
October 10

Elm Burl
October 10

Box Elder Burl
September 10

Spalted Maple
September 10

Carob, Ponderosa Pine, Big Leaf Maple
June 10

Red Gum Eucalyptus
February 10

Red Gum Eucalyptus
October 09

Carob
October 09

Russian Olive
September 09

Madrone Burl
August 09

Carob
August 09

 


Camphor (Hollow) Pods
July 09

Carob
July 09

Big Leaf Western Maple Burl
July 09

Olive
May 09

Olive
May 09

Olive
October 08

Ash & Cherry
October 08

Trex hollow vessel
Aug 08

Magnolia hollow vessel
Aug 08

Koa hollow vessel
Aug 08

Koa
June 08

Carob
June 08

October 07

Carob


October 07

Juniper


October 07

Myrtle

Three pieces with a pierced pebble mosaic carved design I have been doing recently.  The center piece is an ash bowl with broad rim.  The other two pieces are what I call a fountain plate form: the left piece is carob and the right piece magnolia.
 
The piece on the left is a box elder vessel with carved rim and overlapping front, the center piece is a mesquite bowl with enclosed rim with carved textured ebonized band, and the piece on the right is a California buckeye burl hollow form.

Large low hollow form done in claro walnut with a free-form design carved on the top surface

Two of the three pieces are an example of the pierce pebble mosaic patterns I carve to give the piece a unique dynamic quality.  The piece on the left is a mountain ash hollow form, the center piece is a purple heart fountain plate form with carved free-form rim, and the right-hand piece is California buckeye burl hollow form.
Bill Haskell Technique

The turned pieces shown here were turned on my OneWay lathe. I usually start with a log or turning blank mounted between centers. After a tenon is formed on one end, the tenon is inserted in the four-jaw chuck. The outside shape is formed, sanded, and finished before hollowing the inside.

After the piece has been turned and sanded and while still on the lathe, I apply a CA sealer coat (thin viscosity cyanoacrylate, commonly known as Hot Stuff or Super Glue) to the outside, and sand it with 220 and 320 grit sandpaper. In addition to providing better color and detail definition, the CA finish has the benefit of giving strength to a thin walled vessel. Sanding is done initially with the lathe on, and then finally with the lathe off.

I typically use spray can lacquer as a finish, applying numerous coats. After 6-10 coats, I wet sand using mineral spirits, with foam backed 320 grit wet/dry paper. Certain pieces where I desire a high degree of color and detail fidelity, which an oil based finish tends to underachieve; I will initially apply one coat of CA (thin viscosity cyanoacrylate, commonly known as Hot Stuff or Super Glue).  In addition to providing better color and detail definition, the CA finish has the benefit of giving strength to a thin walled vessel.  The CA coat is then sanded out (220, 320, and 00 steel wool) and buffed to remove the scratches.  I then apply several coats of spray lacquer.

 click here to read about CA finishes

last updated 01/20/2012